TRAVEL
ASUNCIÓN,PARAGUAY> The election of Fernando Lugo as Pres-
ident of Paraguay in April 2008 meant long-overdue attention to one of Latin America’s
most intriguing capital cities. Asunción offers a vivid mix of cosmopolitan élan, sultry
weather and an ethnic heritage based on Guaraní culture. —Emily Vasquez
10
THINGS
TO DO>>
1 Support indigenous culture. Paraguay is home to about 500 indigenous communities or villages, including five different linguistic
groups. To learn about their cultures, visit
Museo Boggiani in San Lorenzo, about 18 miles
( 30 kilometers) from Asunción, where the
director, Jorge Vera, is likely to guide your tour.
2Bask in the glow of the Palacio de los
López. The stunning all-white nineteenth-century
presidential palace is best
viewed after dark—when
it is aglow with bright
lights—from across the
street at the patio bar of
the Manzana de la Rivera
cultural center.
tragic and often-violent
history of the country’s
35-year dictatorship is on
display at the Museo de
la Memoria (1066 Calle
Chile), established in
2006 as part of an effort
to bring to light human-rights violations.
performance featuring a
harp is a must-see: the
instrument is Paraguay’s
musical forte.
Enter at the intersection
of Avenida Petirrosi and
Calle República Francesa.
3Eat at the Lido. Easily Paraguay’s most
famous eatery, the Lido
Bar, located in the heart
of downtown Asunción,
boasts a small army of
uniformed waitresses who
shout out orders of the traditional Paraguayan fare
served here since 1953.
5Beat the heat. Find a shady spot at the
city’s central Plaza de los
Heroes. Look for a woman
selling tereré, a cold tea
made with fresh herbs
and sipped through a
metal straw.
7Try the local brew. Never mind the
brand; asuncenos seek
out whatever beer is
coldest and many find
their way to Brittania
Pub. For a more exclusive
experience go to Planta
Alta, an art gallery
and bar in a restored
downtown space.
9Become a fan. Watch the traditional rivalry
between Asunción’s
two largest professional
soccer teams—Club
Olimpia and Club Cerro
Porteño—play out at one
of their regular games at
the city’s Defensoresdel
Chaco stadium or at one
of the clubs’ private fields.
4Explore Paraguay’s (old) politics. The
6Catch a show. Tickets at Asunción’s
Municipal Theater, which
first opened in 1889,
usually sell for less
than $10 a show. Any
8Stroll an open-air market. Asunción’s
largest and most chaotic
outdoor market features
vegetable stalls, a large
butcher, scores of pirated
DVDs, electronics, and
other household goods.
10Cool off by the lake. Lake Ypacaraí,
near the hillside town
of Aregua, is a 13-mile
(20-kilometer) trek from
Asunción and a favorite
place for in-the-know
asuncenos to relax from
the city heat.
ASHLEY PARADA; ANA LAURA
16 Americas Quarterly FALL 2009
AMERICASQUARTERLY.ORG
