TRAVEL
10
THINGS
TO DO>>
SALVADOR, BRAZIL
Chosen in November 2011 as the Afro-descendent capital of the
Americas by leaders of the Encontro Ibero-Americano do Ano
Internacional dos Afrodescendentes, Salvador is also the capital
of Brazil’s northern Bahia state. Also once the seat of national
government after independence, Bahia delights tourists with its
historical sites, music, architecture, beaches, cultural diversity,
and the renowned hospitality of Baianos. —Paulo Rogério
1Stroll Through Historic Downtown. Salvador’s historic Pelourinho district
is recognized by UNESCO
as a World Heritage Site
for its architecture and
unique preservation of
the history of resistance
by African slaves in Brazil. Walk on the famous
Rua Chile to the Municipal Square and Rio Branco
Palace, one of the country’s oldest palaces.
CAIO GUATELLI/LATINCONTENT/GETTY
2Hit the Beach. The beaches north of Salvador, located in the Linha
Verde zone, are among the
best in Brazil. Imbassaí
beach, which means “Path
of the River” in the Indigenous Tupy language, is 63
kilometers ( 39 miles) from
Salvador. Take a bus at the
central bus station directly
to Imbassaí ($5).
3Dance Samba. Brazil- ian samba was born
in Bahia. Don’t miss the
chance to hear authen-
tic beats at the St. George
Pub in the Rio Vermelho
neighborhood. Afterwards,
try the homemade codfish
specialty and a world-class
Cachaça-based caipirinha.
Rua Borges Reis, 60.
4Ride the Elevator. Sal- vador is divided into
upper town and lower
town; the traditional way
of exploring the two levels
is to take the Lacerda Elevator in the historic center of town. Built in 1873,
the elevator has two towers reaching 236 feet ( 72
meters) high, and carries
more than 900,000 people
per month. From the top
you have a panoramic view
of Baía de Todos os Santos. The nominal 80-cent
fee is for maintenance.
5Shop at Mercado Modelo. At Mercado
Modelo, founded in 1912,
you’ll find typical Salvadoran arts and crafts:
paintings, dolls, musical instruments like drums and
berimbau, necklaces, and
other ornaments. The market is across from the Lacerda Elevator in Praça
Visconde de Cayru.
6Hit an Afro-Brazil- ian Bar. Sankofa Café
and Bar on St. Michael
Hill Road has become one
of the most cosmopolitan places in Salvador.
The space, created by DJ
Sankofa Ghana, is filled
with references to African
heritage and the diaspora,
from food to music.
7Sample Baiana Food. Aconchego Zuzu
restaurant specializes in
rich traditional dishes of
Bahia. Decorated with
scenes of African blocos
(local Carnaval music
rehearsal venues), the
restaurant operates within
a small residential village.
Hear live music Thursday
through Sunday, 8: 30–
midnight. Rua Quintino
Bocaiúva, 18.
8Enjoy Art. The Mu- seum of Modern Art
of Bahia, located in a 17th-
century mansion, receives
about 200,000 visitors a
year to its exhibitions of
contemporary Brazilian
and Afro-Brazilian art. In-
side are works of famous
artists like Tarsila do Ama-
ral, Portinari, Di Cavalcanti
and Carybé. Open Tuesday
to Sunday from 1:00–7:00
p.m., free.
9Check Out Brazil’s Harlem. Brazil’s version of New York’s Harlem, Liberdade, is one of
the largest black-major-ity neighborhoods in Latin
America. It’s also home to
the headquarters of Brazil’s oldest Carnaval bloco.
Musicians rehearse at Afro
Ilê Aiyê ballroom every
Saturday of the summer,
starting at 10:00 p.m., La-deira do Curuzu in Liberdade.
10Retreat for a Day. For a break from
Salvador’s bustling cultural
life, visit Chapada Diaman-tina, an oasis in the nearby
mountains, where spiritual leaders and backpackers from around the world
go to marvel at trippy rock
formations and the mystical atmosphere. The
Morro do Pai Inácio, at 312
feet (400 meters) high, is
one of Brazil’s most spectacular and accessible
waterfalls. Buses from Salvador are $30 each way
for the five-hour trip.
AMERICASQUARTERLY.ORG
Americas Quarterly WINTER 2012
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